Download the book in PDF and let yourself be guided
through a story that intertwines a man, his land
and the family that preserves his legacy.
Meanwhile, in 1966, precisely on 23 April, the decree of
President of the Republic Giuseppe Saragat was issued, granting the Doc (Denominazione
di Origine Controllata) status to Barolo. It was immediately understood that this would be
an important step. At last, following the partial experience of the recognition of
Barolo as a Vino Tipico di Pregio back in 1933, the quality of its origin and the precious
characteristics of Barolo were officially enshrined.
The law establishing such Appellations dated only from 1963, Law no. 930, but it had
encouraged wine-producing areas and their various interpreters throughout Italy to take
advantage of this opportunity for protection and promotion.
From that date onwards, the Barolo area began to bustle with activity and
initiatives aimed, on the one hand, at effectively organising the sector's structure and
the quality and origin control mechanism, and, on the other, at concretely promoting the
viticultural and oenological productions obtained from the hills of those eleven Langhe
communes to the right of the River Tanaro, with the municipality of Barolo at the head.
Meanwhile, in his new role at Marchesi di Barolo, Luciano continued to
behave as he had at Giacomo Borgogno. The "Marchesi"
was a larger and more structured operation, but even in the
new position he had to know how to do a bit of everything.
He spent most of his time in the cellar, but equally
continued to enjoy visiting the vineyards, almost always with
Cav. Felice Scarzello. For both of them the vineyard was the favourite place, and this
strong shared passion for the vines both inspired those around them and further reinforced
their working partnership.
Luciano's nostalgia is deep when he recalls those years: "In early
June, Cav. Scarzello would ask me almost every day how the Nebbiolo flowering was
progressing, how promising the vineyard looked with a thought also for the wines that
might be produced from it".
Then, turning more serious, he returns to his cellar work: "Among those barrels I
spent the first four years working alongside Pinòto Scarzello. With him the
collaboration proved invaluable: he was methodical, meticulous and above all not
possessive of his knowledge. So he taught me and I learnt, trying to
put his advice into practice. Thus, the move from Borgogno to the Opera Pia
(as the Marchesi di Barolo was affectionately known in memory of its
past) created no difficulties for me".
Moreover, in the new company — larger and more structured — many
people worked there and the prospects for growth and career advancement seemed
more promising. Above all, he formed new friendships, particularly with
Carlo Capra and Mario Corino.
He thus had the time and opportunity to gain experience and take charge of the situation.
The role of the cellar hand was then strategic. The oenologist had his
organisational and guiding function, but the work of those who carried out the tasks and spent
all their time in contact with wines in slow evolution was
extraordinarily important.
The oenologist at Marchesi di Barolo in those years was Sergio Sandri: having joined
the company young, immediately after the oenologist Paschina, he would remain until
the 1970s. In the latter period, however, the company was beginning to envision for
itself a strategic and prominent role in the world of Barolo
and Alba wines. Accordingly, Piero Scarzello — who had in the meantime succeeded
Cav. Felice as president of the winery — had sought technical and organisational
support from oenologist Renato Ratti, a prominent figure in the Piedmontese
wine world with extensive experience.
On this subject, Luciano's memories return with precision: "From time to time
I would see Renato Ratti arrive at the winery, walk through its rooms, meet with the
owners. I also overheard their discussions about future development. Renato Ratti's
consultancy, as far as I could understand, was essential not only for improving
the current situation, but also for thinking about a new technical figure capable of
accompanying Marchesi di Barolo in its future development".
And indeed the results were not long in coming. It is true that there was still a
brief interim period during which the company made use of another technical adviser,
the oenologist Palladino, but the definitive solution soon arrived,
the one envisioned through Renato Ratti's work.
And so a young oenologist from Gallo Grinzane, Roberto Vezza, was brought in
as the company's technical director — a man who would prove to be
"the right person in the right place", remaining with the company for many years and
fostering and accompanying the definitive development of Marchesi di Barolo.
Between Roberto Vezza and Luciano a relationship of full trust
and collaboration was immediately established, which lasted for a long time and
allowed the company to grow on solid foundations and to count on a development
perspective of great scope.
To tell the truth, at Marchesi di Barolo there was yet another figure whose
work proved of the utmost importance: the accountant Franco Vivaldo.
Originally from Dogliani, he was the organisational and commercial pivot who contributed to
an increasingly global development of the company.
"At the Cantina Borgogno – Luciano continues – I was really happy and for this reason too I never felt tempted to return home to follow my father's trade.
Looking back on those years Luciano feels a surge of pride: "During my military service, I decided to leave the Cantina Borgogno and move to Marchesi di Barolo, also because at the time military service lasted quite a long time.
Meanwhile something unexpected had happened. Suddenly Luciano's gaze opens wide and reveals new emotions: "Mariuccia Allario, known as Maria Giuseppina, my wife, is the other half of my sky.
The meeting with Mariuccia soon proved promising. It is true that their characters were very different, but little by little they complemented each other.
Download the book in PDF and let yourself be guided
through a story that intertwines a man, his land
and the family that preserves his legacy.