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As we know, fortune favours the bold, and so one day Luciano met Nicola
Argamante, an agronomist who, by moving within the world of wine research in Turin, knew Dr
Schneider and often came to the Barolo area. Through him, Luciano managed to involve Anna
Schneider herself, who came to Barolo to inspect that vineyard and that highly unusual vine.
"At a preliminary analysis, Anna Schneider told us, it really seemed that the vine possessed
the characteristics of Nebbiolo, but in order to be truly sure, it was necessary to
investigate further."
A first epidemiological analysis was therefore carried out to understand whether that very
limited vegetative growth might depend on a viral infection. In fact, the first findings of
that assessment confirmed that the vine under examination was infected by viruses.
Dr Schneider's report still left some doubts that had to be clarified through further checks:
first of all, there was no certainty that those particular phenological characteristics
depended precisely on the presence of viruses in the plant, as had happened, for example, with
the sub-variety known as Michét, which had turned out to be another Nebbiolo sub-variety,
Lampia, affected by viruses. Added to this were other uncertainties, such as the doubt as to
whether that vine, once sanitised, would retain those characteristics so promising for the
"quality" of the wines.
One problem remained: in order to learn more, it was necessary to continue and deepen the
investigation, but at that moment the Faculty of Agriculture and, in particular, the Institute
of Viticulture in Turin did not have the economic or professional resources needed to carry the
research forward.
"In spite of everything, however, my brother, Luca Sandrone recalls, was of the opinion that
the investigation had to continue. To understand more, it was necessary to multiply that
vine so as to have a greater number of plants available. But great care had to be taken in
carrying out that propagation, in order to avoid spreading the viral infection to other
vines in that vineyard or in neighbouring ones. A plot of land that could easily be
delimited had to be found, so as to avoid any problems. In the rapid search for a suitable
site, Luciano remembered that behind our parents' house in Barolo there was a plot
of about 500 square metres, well enclosed, that could suit our needs."
Thus a small plot suitable for the propagation of that vine was created, where
checks could be carried out that might produce more concrete and, in some respects, more
decisive results.
On that plot of land, 450 wild Vitis Rupestris plants were planted, and the following year,
after they had rooted well, each one would be grafted with a bud taken from the vine under
study and from another one that had meanwhile been propagated.
Months and years of work followed, along with no small amount of concern: the vines that had
been planted and then grafted gradually developed and promised a good production of bunches to
be vinified and carefully evaluated.
Thus the 1990s arrived. Barolo continued to grow in identity and image within the sector and on
the market, both in Italy and internationally.
Luciano was anxious to see the analytical and organoleptic results of the wine that
would be obtained from the grapes of that small plot. Production from that new
little vineyard began with the 1992 vintage, a year that was certainly not outstanding in
climatic terms. But that had little bearing on the assessment of those new grapes and that new
wine. Indeed, if the vintage had proved to be of middling quality, yet the new production had
shown particular interest and appeal, the result would have been even more encouraging.
In reality, the findings were very positive: the separate vinification of that batch of grapes
produced highly encouraging analytical and organoleptic results. In short, the wine showed a
deeper, more compact colour and, analytically, a high quantity of flavonoids.
"On the strength of these results, Luca further emphasises, Luciano decided to strengthen the
basis of the investigation. A second planting was therefore made, again using wild vines as
rootstock and then grafting them the following year with bud grafts using material taken
from the plants previously planted. This time it was a small plot in the Drocà
area, a zone that was not impeccable from a viticultural point of view,
already because of its east-north-east exposure; a little more than a thousand vines were
planted there. In the meantime, yet another small plot was identified, in the area known as
'Rivassi', very close to the vineyard where Luciano had come across that
original vine. More than 1,300 plants were planted there, and so the total surface area of
the various plots involved in that investigation was becoming significant: it covered about
two Piedmontese giornate, that is to say about 5,800 square metres, with
around 2,900 vines. All of this formed a far more reassuring basis for
verification, and therefore the results would be able to provide greater certainty."
One fine day, in the heart of that year, Luciano, while walking among the rows of a very small Nebbiolo vineyard, barely more than a thousand square metres
Towards the mid-1990s all the vineyards prepared with this type of vine entered production. Year after year, the grapes ripened and yielded more wine.
Download the book in PDF and let yourself be guided
through a story that intertwines a man, his land
and the family that preserves his legacy.