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through a story that intertwines a man, his land
and the family that preserves his legacy.
Meanwhile the years passed. The Sixties ended and the next decade began.
The
Barolo world continued its positive evolution. The arrival of the denominazione di
origine had revived the situation, restoring the enthusiasm that had characterised the
final phase of the nineteenth century and the first fifteen years of the twentieth. Then,
in 1915 the "Great War" had extinguished illusions, taking away many young
people from the countryside and depriving agriculture — viticulture included — of the labour
force that was the foundation of development. Things for quality origin wine would only get
worse in subsequent decades, not only with the arrival of the twenty years of Fascism, but
above all because of that autarchic policy which would privilege agricultural produce useful
for "feeding the bellies of Italians". Finally, the situation would become
tragic with the outbreak of the Second World War.
The disasters of a complicated and contradictory thirty-year period would leave serious
consequences even in the following decades. Thus also reconstruction proved to be a
phase
full of difficulties. Though faced with determination, it would require a long
time to heal the mistakes of the past and lay the foundations for future development.
In reality, the quality of vintages had also been uneven, with events of great quality
immediately followed by others decidedly more critical. Emblematic were the harvests of the
early Seventies: 1970 and 1971 had produced wines of great quality and long-lasting
durability, but then the 1972 vintage would prove so negative that the world
of Barolo and Barbaresco decreed its total downgrading for lack of minimum quality
standards, renouncing the entire production.
With the arrival of the Seventies, Luciano grew increasingly convinced of the greatness of
Barolo wine, an identity status that had already made an impression in Italy, while it
continued to struggle at the international level. He did not yet know quite "what he would
do when he grew up", but
the idea of participating in the Barolo production process enticed him. He had not yet made
decisions, but at an unconscious level he was probably already ready to bet on the future of
this wine.
"In 1974 – Luciano recalls – through a fortunate coincidence I had the
opportunity to manage
my first vineyard, half Nebbiolo and half Dolcetto. A distant relative of
mine was selling
it and I didn't let it slip through my fingers. The vineyard was located in Barolo in a
lovely position, along the road heading towards the village of Monforte d'Alba. Despite
this purchase, the idea of setting up my own estate was far from my mind. At that moment
it was not yet part of my plans. I preferred to think that this purchase was driven more
by a hobbyist impulse. I was interested in trying, experimenting; at most having fun and
comparing myself with the rest of the world. Above all I wanted to try to work as they
did in Burgundy, while respecting the legitimate differences that existed between the two
areas. By continuing to visit that region I had tried to imagine what might happen if I
were to translate that style into our viticultural reality. Not only was I curious to
improve production on my hills, but also to understand what effects it would generate in
our area and among the various producers".
The idea of devoting his free time and his desire to experiment to working in that vineyard
fascinated him more and more: little by little he was rationalising his
plans. At that moment he simply wanted to produce high-quality Nebbiolo grapes,
vinify them, make a fine Barolo wine and then, gradually, sell it. With the money earned he
would be able to continue his research, keep growing, deepen his knowledge and — why not? —
enjoy himself, for example, frequenting fashionable and prestigious restaurants.
The memories crowd in and Luciano recalls: "My first Nebbiolo vineyard for Barolo was not large, barely more than a hectare, and its planting structure was still in decent shape, to the point that a good production could be obtained straight away.
Meanwhile, Luciano's gaze was beginning to open to the world, both at an organisational level and at the level of promotion and market.
Download the book in PDF and let yourself be guided
through a story that intertwines a man, his land
and the family that preserves his legacy.